Porta Portese, San Cosimato and Testaccio are three of Rome’s best-known markets, and they could hardly be more different: the Porta Portese flea market on Sundays, the neighbourhood market in Piazza San Cosimato on weekdays, and the covered Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio, devoted mostly to food. Here’s when to go, what you’ll find and how to plan your visit.
The three markets at a glance
| Market | When | What you’ll find | Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Porta Portese | Sunday mornings, roughly 6–7 am to 2 pm | Clothes, vinyl, books, antiques, vintage objects | Go early and haggle |
| Piazza San Cosimato | Monday to Saturday, mornings, until about 1:30–2 pm | Seasonal fruit and vegetables, meat, fish, cheese | Where Trastevere locals shop every day |
| Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio | Monday to Saturday, roughly 7 am to 3:30 pm | Historic fruit, fish and meat stalls, street food, ready-made dishes | Perfect for a quick lunch |
Opening times can change: it’s always worth checking before you go.
Porta Portese, the Sunday flea market
Porta Portese is Rome’s most famous flea market. It began around 1945, after the war, and takes its name from the 17th-century gate that replaced the ancient Porta Portuensis. Every Sunday morning the stalls fill the streets between Porta Portese, Via Portuense, Via Ippolito Nievo and Via Ettore Rolli. Vittorio De Sica set one of the key scenes of Bicycle Thieves (1948) here.
- What to look for: vinyl, books, prints, second-hand clothes, vintage objects and small antiques. It is not a food market.
- When to go: early, between 7 and 9 am, for more choice and fewer people; near closing time to haggle.
- Watch out: it gets very crowded at peak times, so keep an eye on your wallet and phone. The surrounding streets are closed to traffic: arrive on foot or by public transport.
Piazza San Cosimato market, the neighbourhood shop
San Cosimato is Trastevere’s neighbourhood market, open every morning except Sunday and documented as early as the start of the 20th century. Fruit and vegetable stalls fill the middle of the square, with seasonal local produce such as puntarelle, artichokes and broad beans; around them are permanent stalls for meat, fish and cheese. It’s the place to see Trastevere as residents live it, away from the tourist trail.
Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio, the market for eating
Across the Tiber, the Testaccio market is covered and has four entrances, on Via Beniamino Franklin, Via Alessandro Volta, Via Aldo Manuzio and Via Lorenzo Ghiberti. Alongside the historic fruit, fish and meat stalls there are street food and ready-meal stands, and an archaeological walkway reveals the remains of an ancient horreum, a Roman-era warehouse, beneath the market floor. It makes a good lunch stop after a morning in Trastevere.
How to plan the day
- On a Sunday: Porta Portese early in the morning, then a stroll through the lanes of Trastevere.
- On a weekday: breakfast and shopping at San Cosimato, then cross the Tiber to Testaccio for lunch at the covered market.
- What to bring: cash, a foldable bag and comfortable shoes.
Staying near the markets
If you want to experience this part of Rome like a local, stay in Trastevere or Testaccio. Loly Boutique Hotel, for example, is on Via Emilio Morosini, a short walk from Piazza San Cosimato and looking towards the Tiber and Testaccio: the neighbourhood market is practically on the doorstep, Porta Portese is in the same neighbourhood, and the concierge can suggest a tailored itinerary through markets and workshops.
Frequently asked questions
When is the Porta Portese market?
Every Sunday morning, roughly from 6–7 am until 2 pm.
Is San Cosimato market open on Sundays?
No, it’s open Monday to Saturday, in the mornings.
Which market is best for eating?
The Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio, which has street food and ready-made dishes alongside its food stalls.
Can you haggle at Porta Portese?
Yes, haggling is part of the market’s tradition.
Can you visit more than one market in a day?
Yes: on weekdays San Cosimato and Testaccio pair well, the first in the morning and the second for lunch.